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3D Printing

Fleeting

Table of Contents

entretien

résidus du filament encore présents dans la buse sont soumis à une température inadéquate. Ceci constitue la principale source de bouchage de buse lors d’un changement de filament.

— https://www.filimprimante3d.fr/108-filament-de-nettoyage-et-de-purge

buse et la barrière thermique sont des consommables lourdement éprouvés lors du fonctionnement d’une imprimante 3D. Il est donc normal d’avoir à les changer régulièrement, et d’autant plus dans le cadre d’une utilisation avec des matériaux chargés.

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

L’usure des tubes PTFE de guidage est un autre élément qui compte dans la maintenance de votre tête d’imprimante 3D, et auquel il faut faire attention. Pensez à les changer de temps en temps !

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

changement de la buse et de la barrière thermique peut être fait séparément, mais nous recommandons vivement de les changer ensemble

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

points principaux à vérifier régulièrement sont la poulie d’entrainement, le moteur de l’extrudeur, le roulement du compresseur, le compresseur lui-même, et les ventilations de tête :

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Une tension de courroie trop importante aura tendance à faire forcer le moteur, et donc engendrer de plus en plus de décalages durant les impressions. A contrario, une courroie pas assez tendue génèrera de plus en plus de “Ghosting” sur votre impression 3D, voire déformera les cercles en ovales.

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Toutes les vis des paliers Z (sur le dessus et le dessous de la machine), Les vis des moteurs et des poulies de courroies, Si nécessaire, celles les paliers de roulement sous le lit chauffant

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

couple de serrage idéal pour toutes les vis de maintien et de structure étant d’environ 1 à 1.2 Nm.

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

filament reprend petit à petit de l’humidité et peut devenir en quelques semaines de plus en plus difficile à imprimer

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

conservez vos bobines à l’abri de la lumière, dans un endroit plutôt sec, frais (<25°C) et dans un sac fermé avec des pastilles anti-humidité.

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

bobine ouverte doit être consommée au plus tôt pour diminuer ces risques

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Nettoyer régulièrement vos machines, et enlever tous les déchets

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Les entrées des ventilateurs

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

L’entrainement de l’extrudeur

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

graissage des axes et des douilles est conseillé de temps en temps lorsque vous sentez que les axes deviennent un peu « secs » au toucher

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Utilisez de la graisse liquide PTFE et évitez la graisse mécanique standard qui va avoir tendance à sécher et devenir collante

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Passer régulièrement du filament de purge permet d’augmenter significativement la durée de vie de votre buse et barrière thermique et gardera une qualité d’impression optimum. Il est recommandé de purger votre tête à l’aide du filament de purge dès que vous souhaitez imprimer une matière différente

— https://www.formation-3d-france.com/8-bonnes-pratiques-maintenance-imprimantes-3d-fdm/

Lubrifiez votre imprimante 3D

— https://cults3d.com/fr/blog/articles/5-etapes-entretenir-imprimante-3d

Juste une goutte ou deux sur vos rails et tiges feront l’affaire

— https://cults3d.com/fr/blog/articles/5-etapes-entretenir-imprimante-3d

#+BEGIN_QUOTE Nettoyer la buse d’extrusion

— https://cults3d.com/fr/blog/articles/5-etapes-entretenir-imprimante-3d #+END_QUOTEq

calibration

calibration cube

adherence

buildtak

structures

skirt

A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part.  The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament.

raft

A Raft is a horizontal latticework of filament that is located underneath your part.  Your 3D printed part will be printed on top of this raft, instead of directly on the build platform surface.

brim

A Brim is a special type of skirt that is actually attached to the edges of your model. Typically, the brim is printed with a increased number of outlines to create a large ring around your part, similar to the brim of a hat. Brims are often used to hold down the edges of your part, which can prevent warping and help with bed adhesion

assembling parts

threaded fasteners

For a more accurate fastener pilot hole consider drilling the hole after printing rather than printing it in the part.

— https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners/

Heat up or tap in inserts and embedded nuts are the most popular methods for securing 3D printed components due to their simple installation, connection strength (metal on metal) and ease of repeated assembly/disassembly

— https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners/

heat set inserts

Align the insert with the pre-printed or drilled hole (for hole sizes refer to the insert manufacturer’s recommendations) Insert a soldering iron into the insert heating it and the surrounding material up (avoid overheating and melting the surrounding material) Slowly apply pressure, pushing the insert down into the hole to the desired depth

– https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners/

tap in inserts

Align the insert with the pre-printed or drilled hole (for hole sizes refer to the insert manufacturer’s recommendations) Using a hammer gently tap the insert down into the hole to the desired depth

– https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners/

joints

tools

OctoPrint vs AstroPrint

[2021-02-06 Sat 07:40]

However, the AstroPrint team has made sweeping changes and additions to the software, making these two host software offerings quite a bit different in many ways.

[2021-02-06 Sat 07:43]

AstroPrint, you will be able to control your 3D printer entirely from your phone or tablet; you will not need to use a computer for any part of the process (unless you are designing a custom part).

FDM

filament

temperature tower

PETG

PETG appears to throw about the same quantity and distribution of particle sizes as PLA, which is about two orders of magnitude smaller than ABS in VOC gaseous volume and in micron and sub-micron particulates

— https://forum.makerforums.info/t/does-printing-in-petg-create-toxic-fumes-or-is-it-safe-like-pla/47499

As best I can tell from the literature, there is nothing especially hazardous fume wise about printing with PETG.

— https://forum.makerforums.info/t/does-printing-in-petg-create-toxic-fumes-or-is-it-safe-like-pla/47499

ABS

TPU

hardness

The hardness of TPU is measured on the Shore A scale, with higher values indicating a harder and less flexible material. Choose the appropriate TPU hardness for your specific application.

— https://formfutura.com/blog/material-guide-tpu-filament/

PLA

PLA is harder than ABS, melts at a lower temperature (around 180°C to 220°C), and has a glass transition temperature between 60-65 °C, so is potentially a very useful materia

— https://reprap.org/wiki/PLA

PLA, is a thermoplastic monomer derived from renewable, organic sources such as corn starch or sugar cane.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

Using biomass resources makes PLA production different from most plastics, which are produced using fossil fuels through the distillation and polymerization of petroleum

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

PLA can be produced using the same equipment as petrochemical plastics, making PLA manufacturing processes relatively cost efficient

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

PLA is a type of polyester made from fermented plant starch from corn, cassava, maize, sugarcane or sugar beet pulp. The sugar in these renewable materials are fermented and turned into lactic acid, when is then made into polylactic acid, or PLA.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

PLA production uses 65% less energy than producing conventional plastics and generates 68% fewer greenhouse gases and contains no toxins. It can be also remain environmentally friendly should the correct end-of-life scenario be followed

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

no degradation seen in over a year of the material being submerged in seawater at 25°C.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

see recycling pla

PLA can be degraded by hydrolysis, thermal degradation or photodegradation:

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

four common end-of-life scenarios for PLA:

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

Recycling

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

Composting Industrial composting conditions allow for chemical hydrolysis followed by microbial digestion to degrade the PLA.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

Incineration End-of-life PLA can be incinerated, creating 19.5 MJ/kg (8,368 btu/lb) of energy and leaving no residue.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

Landfill While PLA can go to landfill, this is the least environmentally friendly option, due to the slow degradation rates of the material in ambient temperatures.

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

acetone softens the surface of the material, making it sticky without dissolving it so it can be welded to another PLA surface

— https://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/what-is-pla

temperatures

  • External reference: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-in-pla

  • External reference: https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/

    If the temperature is too high
    You will see more strings between the separate parts of your print and you may notice that the extruder leaks out a little bit of plastic while moving between separate areas of the print.  If this happens you should try to incrementally lower the temperature by 5 degrees until the stringing is brought under control without compromising strength. If you just can’t seem to get the stringing to stop, you might want to consider adjusting your retraction settings to increase retraction in increments of 0.5mm or so.
    If the temperature is too cold
    You will either see that the filament is not sticking to the previous layer and you are getting a rough surface (like the picture below), or you will get a part that is not strong and can be pulled apart easily.  In either case, you should increase the temperature by 5 degrees and try again until you get good line segments on every layer and have a strong part when done printing.

    — https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-in-pla

    PLA prints best at around 210 °C, but it’s very versatile and can work well anywhere from 180 to 230 °C.  It doesn’t require a heated bed, but if your printer does have one, set it to somewhere between 20 and 60 °C.

    — https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/

enclosure

  • External reference: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-enclosure-5-cheap-diy-options/ DIY 3D Printer Enclosure: 6 Cheap & Easy Solutions | All3DP

    [2021-02-26 Fri 01:50]

    Ideally, you should make your enclosure out of nonflammable material (e.g. metal and glass), which may not be cheap.  Keep in mind that a good thermal insulator can be easily flammable (e.g. polystyrene) so it’s a good idea to always add a smoke detector to your enclosure.

[2021-02-26 Fri 01:50]

benchtop photo studio tent. Amazon sells these for cheap.

[2021-02-26 Fri 01:51]

Beware, however, that the material typically used to make these tents is highly flammable.

[2021-02-26 Fri 01:52]

Many old cabinets and closets can be converted into enclosures

[2021-02-26 Fri 01:53]

is one the most popular and budget-friendly options for a 3D printer enclosure. It’s the IKEA LACK enclosure made from two (or three) tables stacked on top of each other. While the bottom table serves as an actual stand onto which you place the printer, the top table is typically fitted with thin acrylic sheets and serves as a hood onto which a spool-holder can be placed

slicer

3D slicer

The tool, that provided a 3D geometry, create horizontal slices and generate the gcode program to actually print the model.

issues

backlash

good clue into identifying backlash is when infill diagonal lines don’t meet up with the perimeter lines.

— https://3dprinterly.com/what-is-3d-printer-backlash-how-can-you-fix-it/

adhérence

solutions au problème d’adhérence

  • External reference: https://www.filimprimante3d.fr/content/59-l-adherence-un-probleme-les-solutions

    [2021-02-05 Fri 22:38]

    Raft consiste à ajouter une base de matière sous l’objet imprimé. Ainsi ce dernier ne sera pas imprimé directement sur la plateau mais sur cette base. Il s’agit d’une superposition d’environ 4 couches, sous forme de grille plus large que l’objet, permettant une meilleure accroche. Il assure aussi une meilleure stabilité durant le tout le temps de l’impression (idéal pour des impressions longues). Le problème de cette technique est qu’elle laisse des marques sur la pièce imprimée et est difficile à décrocher. Attention aussi aux objets fins et fragiles, car le retrait du raft risque d’en briser un morceau

[2021-02-05 Fri 22:39]

brim est une très fine couche imprimée autour de la pièce. Il permet un bon maintien des petites parties imprimées vers l’extérieur de la pièce : par exemple les pattes d’une araignée. Très fin, le brim est beaucoup plus facile à retirer que le raft.

[2021-02-05 Fri 22:40]

Le BlueTapeIl s’agit d’un adhésif résistant à de hautes températures, donc compatible avec un plateau chauffant. Sous forme de rouleau, généralement en 50 mm de diamètre, il se place aisément sur le plateau et se décolle tout aussi facilement. Il permet une bonne accroche de la première couche et limite le warping.

[2021-02-05 Fri 22:41]

préconisé l’utilisation sur un plateau verre afin de nettoyer facilement les éventuelles résidus restants après l’impression

[2021-02-05 Fri 22:41]

Les colles stick s’utilisent pour du PLA sans problèm

stringing

Enabling retraction is the most common method used to combat 3D printer stringing

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

determine the correct retraction distance, you may have to perform test prints. Try this retraction test print: It prints quickly and does not require too much filament.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

try reducing the nozzle temperature by 5 to 10 °C increments, but never reduce the temperature below the manufacturer’s minimum specifications. These are the commonly recommended temperatures for some of the most common filaments:

  • PLA: 180-220 °C
  • ABS: 200-250 °C (90-100 °C print bed)
  • PET: 215-235 °C
  • TPE: 210-240 °C (20-70 °C print bed)
  • PVA: 160-190 °C (60 °C print bed)
  • TPU: 230-250 °C (60 °C print bed)

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

Using a temperature calibration tower test print is a great way to identify the ideal temperature for each printing material.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

Increasing the travel speed of the nozzle when it’s not trying to print can reduce 3D printer stringing, but if the temperature is low and the print speed is too high, you may end up with under extrusion because the plastic will lack enough time to drip. Generally, a speed of 190 to 200 mm/s will work fine with most printing materials, but MatterHackers has found 150 mm/s to be the ideal travel speed for most printers.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

ensure your nozzle is thoroughly cleaned before any printing to remove any dirt from the previous filaments

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

Once moisture is present, it’ll tend to turn into steam as the plastic gets heated up. This steam can mix with the plastic and can increase the probability of oozing during non-print movements.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

Problème impression 3D : comment éviter les erreurs ? - 3Dnatives

  • External reference: https://www.3dnatives.com/probleme-impression-3d-121020203/

    [2021-02-06 Sat 08:29]

    Les premières couches d’une impression sont cruciales : comme elles constituent la base du modèle, il est capital qu’elles adhèrent au plateau d’impression. Si ce n’est pas le cas, l’impression 3D risque de présenter quelques défaut

[2021-02-06 Sat 08:30]

Sachez également que la vitesse d’impression est d’une grande importance, surtout pour la première couche. Une solution pourrait donc consister à réduire cette vitesse afin de donner au matériau suffisamment de temps pour adhérer à la surface de la plate-forme de construction.

[2021-02-06 Sat 08:34]

la réduction de la hauteur de couche. Généralement, on dit qu’il ne faut pas que la hauteur dépasse 80% du diamètre de sortie de la buse

layer separation

Layer delamination occurs when the layers of a 3D print separate or don’t completely stick together. This results in ugly cracks that may seem like a pain to get rid of

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

5 Tips to Avoid Delamination

The first (and perhaps most obvious) solution to layer separation is to increase your printer’s hot end temperature.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

Start with your normal print temperature and increase it in 5-°C increments until you see some improvement.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

check that the print cooling fan is aimed at the printing model. If so, try decreasing your fan speed in 10% increments. You will probably see a significant decrease in cracks in your prints

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

Start with your normal extrusion rate, and increase it in 5% increments.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation/

clogging

cold pull

  • External reference: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

    Here’s how to perform a cold pull:

    • If there is one, begin by removing your Bowden tube from the extruder head.
    • Heat up the hot end to the printing temperature of your chosen cold pull filament while removing the old filament.
    • Feed the cold pull filament through the nozzle until it starts oozing out a little.
    • Cool the hot end while applying constant pressure on the filament strand. This ensures the tip of the strand molds to the shape of the nozzle’s interior while cooling.
    • When the hot end is about 60 °C, you can release the pressure. By this time, the clog or dirt is hopefully stuck to the cold pull filament strand, already.
    • Heat the nozzle up once again to the printing temperature of your filament and start pulling it out. Do this step more carefully if you’re using PLA, as there’s a high risk of snapping it instead of pulling it out in one piece.

    — https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

try the cold pull method. This method makes use of a strand of filament and strategic temperature changes to unclog or clean a nozzle without dismantling the whole thing.

— https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

Notes linking here